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- By: The Bearded Backpacker
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It might surprise you to hear that an American traveled to Iraq, let alone solo, but hear me out.
I spent over a week backpacking through Iraq, getting completely lost in ancient cities, insane bazaars (markets), and landmarks that most people only see in history books.
What I found was a welcoming country, delicious, fresh food, and ancient stories only known by the locals who are waiting to be told.
In this blog, I’ll share my solo backpacking journey, covering everything from language barriers and getting around to costs and safety tips.
I’ll also talk about connecting with locals, what I learned along the way, and why Iraq deserves a spot on your travel list, even if you’re traveling solo.
Whether you’re curious about Iraq’s history, wondering if Iraq is safe, or looking for an off-the-beaten-path adventure, this guide has you covered.
Let’s get started!
Check out my Ultimate Guide on Safety in Iraq here.
Just so you know this post contains some affiliate links. Completely free to you, I may earn a small commission when you make a purchase.
Check Out My Short Videos on Iraq
@thebeardedbackpacker | Day 1: Solo Backpacking through Iraq 🇮🇶 as an American 🇺🇸: Part 2- Crossing the border from Kuwait | Follow along for more of this series #travel #traveltiktok #travellife #traveltips #travelvlog #istanbul #kuwait #kuwait_tiktoker #kuwait🇰🇼 #iraqitiktok #fyp #backpacking #solotravel
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@thebeardedbackpacker Day 2: Solo Backpacking through Iraq as an American: Haircut in Basra Follow my journey as I backpack through Iraq solo with no plans or anything booked. In this video i’ll answer your question: Is Iraq Safe? Can Americans visit Iraq? Follow along for morr of this series #travel #vlog #iraq #SoloTravel #iraqi #iraqitiktok #visitiraq #iraq🇮🇶 #baghdad🇮🇶 #travelbucketlist #basrah #backpacking #travelvlog Day 2: Solo Backpacking through Iraq as an American: Haircut in Basra Follow my journey as I backpack through Iraq solo with no plans or anything booked. In this video i’ll answer your question: Is Iraq Safe? Can Americans visit Iraq? Follow along for morr of this series #travel #vlog #iraq #SoloTravel #iraqi #iraqitiktok #visitiraq #iraq🇮🇶 #baghdad🇮🇶 #travelbucketlist #basrah #backpacking #travelvlog #fyp Visit Iraq in 2024| Visit Iraq as American | Is Baghdad safe
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Answering Your Top Question:
Can I Travel to Iraq Alone?
The short answer is yes, Americans can travel to Iraq.
Iraq offers a visa-on-arrival (VOA) for U.S. citizens, and while many people might think it’s risky, I had a different experience.
Most Iraqis tend to separate politics from people, so I was treated with curiosity and kindness rather than hostility.
Here is a list of citizens who qualify for a visa-on-arrival.
Iraqi History and Culture: A Traveler’s Guide
Iraq is often referred to as the “Cradle of Civilization” and for good reason. It’s home to ancient Mesopotamia, where some of the earliest cities and empires were established over 5,000 years ago.
This region gave birth to writing, law codes, and massive architectural wonders like ziggurats.
Throughout history, Iraq has been ruled by the Sumerians, Babylonians, Assyrians, and Persians, leaving behind tons of archaeological sites.
Places like Babylon and the Ziggurat of Ur still stand as reminders of Iraq’s rich past.
Culturally, Iraq is deeply rooted in tradition and religion. The majority of Iraqis are Muslim, with Shia Islam being the dominant sect, followed by Sunnis and smaller groups like Christians and Yazidis.
Hospitality is a cornerstone of Iraqi culture, so expect to be treated with incredible generosity.
Iraq’s culture also is noticeable through its food, music, and art. Traditional dishes like kebabs, dolma, and masgouf (grilled fish) are staples, while folk music and poetry reflect the country’s vibrant heritage.
Why I Traveled Solo Through Iraq (And Why You Should Too)
I strongly believe Iraq offers a rare mix of ancient history, rich culture, and amazing hospitality that few places in the world can match.
As an American, visiting Iraq solo gave me a chance to break stereotypes and experience the country beyond the headlines.
The historical landmarks, such as Babylon, the Ziggurat of Ur, and the holy cities of Najaf and Karbala, are awe-inspiring. Walking through these sites felt like stepping back in time.
Baghdad, with its busy markets, shows the resilience and spirit of the Iraqi people.
I also believe it offers Americans another view of Iraq from what we’ve been shown and taught in the West. Iraqis were curious about my journey and welcomed me with open arms.
Their kindness and willingness to share their culture made me feel at home. For those seeking an off-the-beaten-path adventure, Iraq is a destination that challenges perceptions and leaves lasting memories.
What to Wear in Iraq?
Iraq is a conservative country, in some areas. Like Karbala. So dressing modestly is key to respecting local customs. For men, lightweight pants and long-sleeved shirts are ideal for staying comfortable while adhering to cultural norms.
I generally dressed modestly and was covered up most of the time since I have tattoos, but I did wear shorts occasionally.
Wearing shorts is completely fine in casual settings, but keep in mind the dress code when visiting religious sites.
For female travelers, it’s important to wear loose-fitting clothing that covers the arms and legs. A scarf is also recommended to cover the head when visiting mosques or religious sites.
Many women opt for long skirts or maxi dresses paired with a lightweight cardigan.
Regardless of gender, comfortable walking shoes are a must for exploring cities and historical sites.
Pack layers, especially if visiting in cooler months, as temperatures can drop significantly at night.
Is It Safe to Travel Solo in Iraq?
One of the biggest questions I get asked is whether it’s safe to travel solo in Iraq. My honest answer is, it depends on your mindset and preparation.
While Iraq has faced years of conflict and instability, much of the country is now stable, especially cities like Baghdad, Najaf, Karbala, and Erbil.
I personally felt safe during my travels, but I stayed alert, followed local advice, and customs.
The key is to be informed. Read blogs like this one, talk to locals, and avoid areas near borders with ongoing tensions.
Iraqis are extremely hospitable, and their warmth really made me feel at ease. I was invited into their homes for chai and meals, and locals were proud to to share their stories.
That said, it’s important to plan ahead. Have copies of your documents, know where the nearest embassy is, and stay connected with your loved ones. Using apps like Google Translate and Careem also made navigating much easier.
Traveling solo means you’ll need to be extra cautious, but if you’re respectful and prepared, Iraq can be an amazing and safe destination to visit for sure.
Check out my Ultimate Guide on Safety in Iraq here.
What You Will Find in this guide
Table of Contents
"Taking that first step, that first flight, first solo trip may seem scary, but it's those very first things that can potentially take you a thousand miles and places."
Backpacking Through Iraq (Mini Route)
Backpacking through Iraq was an epic ride to say the least. I crossed the border from Kuwait at Safwan and started my trip in Basra.
The people were friendly and helpful, especially when I was lost! It was my first real taste of Iraq, and it set the tone for the rest of my trip.
Next, I visited the Mesopotamia marshlands in Chibayish. It was calm and beautiful, nothing like I expected. After that, I headed to Najaf and saw the famous Imam Ali Shrine, which is sacred to many Shia Muslims.
From there, I made my way to Babylon near Hilla to explore ancient ruins before continuing to Karbala, where I visted the golden shrines.
I ended my trip in Baghdad, where I found some old Saddam Hussein money. Iraq taught me patience, openness, and to go with the flow. After Iraq, I flew to Pakistan to keep this show on the road.
Staying Healthy While Traveling in Iraq
Staying healthy while traveling in Iraq is all about preparation and awareness. Drink bottled or filtered water, as tap water isn’t always safe for foreigners.
Stick to freshly cooked meals and avoid raw vegetables unless you’re sure they’ve been washed with clean water.
Carry hand sanitizer and wet wipes, especially if you’re eating street food or using public restrooms. Pack a small first-aid kit with essentials like pain relievers, anti-diarrheal medicine, and rehydration salts.
It’s also a good idea to get travel insurance that covers medical emergencies. Pharmacies are easy to find in cities, but it’s better to bring any personal medications you need to avoid issues.
If you do decide to bring personal medication, be prepared to explain what they are at checkpoints.
I recommend Allianz Travel Insurance. Check out their plans here.
Best Time to Visit Iraq
I visited Iraq in October, and the weather was pretty mild during the day but much cooler in the evenings and at night.
As I worked my way north from the southern regions to Baghdad, the temperatures dropped even more, especially at night.
Fall (October to November) and spring (March to May) are the best times to visit Iraq. These seasons offer pleasant temperatures, making it easier to explore cities and historical sites without dealing with extreme heat.
Summers can get brutally hot, particularly in the south, with temperatures soaring above 110°F (43°C). Winters are much cooler, especially in northern areas, so packing layers is essential if you’re visiting during this time.
Iraqi Cuisine: What to Eat
Iraqi cuisine is fresh, flavorful, and heavily influenced by its history and geography. One of the most popular dishes I had was masgouf, Iraq’s national dish.
It’s a grilled fish, usually carp, cooked over an open flame and seasoned with salt, turmeric, and tamarind. It’s smoky, tender, and delicious but comes with a lot of bones, so eat carefully!
I also ate plenty of kebabs, which are skewered and grilled meats served with flatbread, grilled vegetables, and pickles. The flavors are bold, and the portions are generous, making it a go-to meal for travelers.
Navigating Money and Budgeting in Iraq
Iraq’s currency is the Iraqi Dinar (IQD). When I visited, 1 USD was roughly 1,450 IQD, but rates can change, so it’s smart to check before your trip.
You don’t need to carry much cash on you while here. ATMs are easy to find in big cities like Baghdad, Basra, Karbala, and Erbil.
I usually took out 300,000 dinars at a time, and ATM fees ranged from 1,250 to 7,500 dinars ($1–$5 USD). Banks like the National Islamic Bank often had lower fees.
Currency exchange is straightforward, especially in city centers, malls, and markets. USD is widely accepted, and Euros can also be exchanged.
Credit cards can be used in modern supermarkets, malls, and upscale restaurants, but cash is needed for budget hotels, street food, and smaller markets.
I recommend bringing both a VISA and Mastercard, as some ATMs may only accept one type.
If you need U.S. dollars, International Development Bank ATMs allow USD withdrawals.
Always keep backup cash, especially if you’re traveling outside major cities where ATMs can be harder to find.
Also, make sure your banknotes are in good condition. Torn or damaged bills are often rejected, so inspect your cash before handing it over. If someone tries to give you torn bills as change, politely ask for a different note.
Must See Places in Iraq
Iraq has so much history and culture packed into it, and there’s something for everyone. I feel like I need to visit this place again to experience everything.
Here are some highlights:
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Babylon: Walk through ancient ruins and step into one of the world’s oldest civilizations.
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Imam Ali Shrine (Najaf): This gold-domed mosque is stunning and holds deep religious importance.
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Karbala: Visit the golden shrines of Imam Hussein and Abbas, which draw millions of visitors.
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Baghdad: Dive into historic markets, the famous Al-Mutanabbi Street, and the Abbasid Palace.
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Ziggurat of Ur (Nasiriyah): A 4,000-year-old temple and a must-see for history buffs.
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Chibayish Marshes: Take a boat ride through peaceful wetlands and see traditional reed houses.
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Sulaymaniyah (Kurdistan): Chill in modern cafes, hike mountains, and check out the Red Prison Museum.
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Al-Qadisiyah Castle: A lesser-known spot with ruins and great views.
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Hatra: An ancient city with well-preserved temples and ruins that feel frozen in time.
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Mosul: Explore the rebuilt old city and see Al-Nuri Mosque while learning about its recovery.
Packing Tips for Iraq
Packing light is essential, especially if you’re a backpacker like me. I only take a single backpack, which means I focus on essentials and keep it minimal. I typically bring two or three outfits and recycle them by re-wearing or washing them when needed.
Iraq’s weather varies depending on the season. Summers can be extremely hot, with temperatures reaching over 110°F (43°C), so lightweight, breathable clothes are a must. In winter, especially in the north, it can get chilly, so a light jacket or sweater is necessary.
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Essentials:
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Loose, modest clothing to respect local culture.
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A scarf or shawl for covering up when visiting religious sites.
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Comfortable walking shoes for exploring cities and historic sites.
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Sunglasses, sunscreen, and a hat for sun protection.
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A reusable water bottle to stay hydrated.
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Tech and Travel Gear:
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Power bank and plug adapters (Iraq uses Type C and D plugs).
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Portable Wi-Fi or SIM card for internet access.
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Travel-sized toiletries and wet wipes for freshening up on the go.
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Extras:
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Small first-aid kit and any necessary medications.
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Notebook with important phrases in Arabic.
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Copies of documents like your passport and visa.
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Packing smart and light makes it easier to move around, especially when hopping between cities. Traveling with just a backpack also helps you blend in more easily and keeps you mobile.
Preparing for Your Trip to Iraq
Preparation is key when traveling to Iraq. I spent a lot of time talking to locals beforehand, which helped me feel more confident.
I found people through travel WhatsApp groups and Couchsurfing, and they provided valuable tips about safety, transportation, and local customs.
Researching online also gave me a better understanding of what to expect and how to plan my route.
Make sure to sort out your visa in advance if possible, and have cash on hand, as ATMs can be unreliable in some areas. Download offline maps and translation apps to avoid issues when there’s no internet connection.
It’s also a good idea to carry a small notebook with key Arabic phrases written down in case your phone dies.
Pack modest clothing to respect the local culture, and always keep copies of your documents handy. Preparing ahead made my trip much smoother and helped me connect with locals before I even arrived.
Getting a Visa for Iraq as an American
Getting a visa to visit Iraq as an American requires preparation. You can obtain a visa on arrival at Baghdad and Basra International Airports, but it’s always best to confirm the latest requirements before traveling.
The visa fee is approximately $77, and you’ll need to pay in cash (U.S. dollars).
I got my visa at the Kuwait border, and the process was quick and simple. None of the debit or credit cards worked for the payment system here, and they don’t accept cash.
However, if you run into issues, there’s a man in the back of the building inside the SIM card shop. You can pay him cash, and he’ll load the money onto a credit card for you to use.
He may hold your phone until you return, but it’s an easy solution if you’re stuck. Within 4 hours, I was cleared to head to Basra. This option worked well for me since I was already traveling through the region.
Alternatively, visas can also be obtained at select land borders, but this process may take longer and requires extra documentation. Make sure your passport is valid for at least six months beyond your arrival date.
It’s important to note that the Kurdistan region has a different visa process. If you’re flying directly to Erbil or
Sulaymaniyah in Iraqi Kurdistan, you can typically get a visa on arrival for around $75. This visa, however, is only valid for Kurdistan and doesn’t allow entry into other parts of Iraq without additional permits.
For those planning to travel between Kurdistan and the rest of Iraq, you may need to arrange for separate visas or permits ahead of time to avoid issues at checkpoints.
Booking Flights to Iraq
Booking flights to Iraq requires a bit of planning. I flew from Houston (IAH) to Turkey and then to Kuwait because Iraq’s airspace was closed at the time due to retaliatory strikes by Israel on Iran.
Many flights were canceled during that period, and alternative routes were necessary. Fortunately, the situation has now stabilized, and flights to Iraq are back to normal.
Major airlines like Turkish Airlines, Qatar Airways, and Emirates offer routes to Baghdad and Erbil. If you’re coming from the U.S., expect at least one layover, usually in Istanbul, Doha, or Dubai.
Flights can range from $600–$900 round-trip, depending on the season and how early you book. Be sure to check the visa requirements ahead of time and have your documents ready to avoid delays at immigration.
In the southern part of Iraq, there are three international airports you can use: Baghdad International Airport, Basrah International Airport and Al Najaf International Airport.
Most international flights to Iraq fly to Erbil and Baghdad International Airport. I flew out of Baghdad Airport
Connecting with the People: Local Hospitality and Cultural Norms
One of the highlights of traveling through Iraq is the incredible hospitality. Iraqis are known for their warmth and generosity, and it’s not uncommon to be invited into someone’s home for tea or even a meal.
Accepting these invitations is a great way to connect with locals and learn about their culture.
About 60–65% of Iraq’s population is Shia Muslim, while the rest are mostly Sunni Muslims, along with smaller Christian and Yazidi communities. Understanding these demographics can help you appreciate the cultural diversity and religious customs you may encounter.
When interacting, keep in mind that Iraq has a conservative culture, so dressing modestly is important, especially for women.
Always greet people with respect, and learning a few basic Arabic phrases like “Salam Alaikum” (peace be upon you) can go a long way.
Get ready for lots of curiosity! Locals will often ask where you’re from and why you’re visiting Iraq. If you’re a people person, you’ll fit right in.
Be open to conversations, smile, and leave any ego at home—you’ll make connections that can turn into lasting memories.
It’s also worth noting that men and women may have different social norms, so observe and follow the local customs. For example, handshakes are common among men but may not be appropriate with women unless they offer first.
Getting Around Iraq: Transportation Tips
Getting around Iraq is fairly straightforward once you know the basics. Taxis are common in most cities, and you can find them anywhere.
For a faster option, you can use the Careem app, which works in Baghdad and a few other cities, offering a safer and more reliable way to get around. Keep in mind that Careem does not go city-to-city, only inner city.
Shared taxis are another popular and budget-friendly option, especially for longer distances between cities. They operate from garages, which are large transportation hubs where taxis and minibuses gather.
Garages can be found in most cities, ask locals or hotel staff for directions to the nearest one. Shared taxis only leave when full, so you might have to wait a bit, but they’re much cheaper than private taxis.
If you’re using buses or shared taxis, keep in mind that the front seat usually costs a bit more. Also, shared taxis won’t leave until they’re full, so you might end up waiting longer than expected. It’s a gamble, if you’re in a hurry, I wouldn’t risk it.
Regular taxis are cash-only, so make sure you have enough dinars with you. If you’re using Careem, you can pay through the app with a card or in cash, which makes things a lot easier.
Buses are also available, though they’re less common for tourists due to longer wait times and less flexibility. If you’re in a hurry, stick with taxis or shared taxis.
When using taxis, always negotiate the price before getting in, as meters are rarely used. In cities like Baghdad, Careem helps avoid haggling altogether, giving you set prices upfront.
I used a combination of Careem app rides, taxis, and shared taxis, some of the buses were taking too long to fill up.
Check out my Guide on Crossing the Iraq-Kuwait Border here.
Cost of Traveling Solo in Iraq
Traveling solo in Iraq is affordable, especially if you’re backpacking, but keep in mind that solo travel often means paying a little more since there’s no one to split costs with.
Personally, I’d rather pay the extra and enjoy the freedom that comes with solo travel.
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Accommodation: Budget hotels or guesthouses cost around $15–$30 per night. Hostels are rare, but you can find some affordable stays in bigger cities like Baghdad. I also used Couchsurfing and stayed with locals for free.
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Food: Local meals are inexpensive, with street food and small restaurants charging $2–$5 for a hearty meal. If you’re eating at fancier places, expect to pay around $10–$15.
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Transportation: Shared taxis within cities cost $1–$3, while long-distance rides can range from $10–$20 depending on the distance. Use Careem app, or go to local garages(show garages)
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Attractions: Most historical sites and museums cost $2–$5 for entry, and some sites are free to visit. If you plan to visit Babylon it’s $20 for all the sites there. Visiting shrines and mosques are free(remember to dress modestly)
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Extras: Airola eSIM card with data costs around $9–$30. Click here to get 10% off of your eSim order. I purchased the 10GB data and lasted me my entire trip.
While solo travel means higher costs compared to sharing expenses, it also gives you the freedom to
Check out Allianz Travel plans here.
Challenges of Solo Travel in Iraq
Traveling to Iraq solo was eye-opening, but dealing with the language barrier wasn’t easy. Most people speak Arabic or Kurdish, and only a few knew some English. In fast situations, like catching a taxi, it got tricky.
Explaining where I needed to go was a struggle. Picture standing on a busy street in Baghdad, pointing at maps and using hand gestures while the clock’s ticking.
It was frustrating, especially when I was in a rush. English speakers were harder to find in the south, but Baghdad had more people who could help.
About 35% of Iraq’s population speaks English, with only 0.3% being native speakers. English was more common in Baghdad, but the south had fewer speakers, making tasks like catching taxis harder.
The language barrier also slowed down some checkpoints since officers often didn’t speak English. Explaining who I was and where I was going took time, but having my documents ready and using Google Translate helped.
Honestly, it taught me patience. I learned to stay calm and use Google Translate, which saved me more times than I can count. I’d type out phrases, show my phone, and somehow we’d figure it out.
The locals were super helpful, even when we couldn’t understand each other. Language barriers are just part of the adventure. So, if you’re heading to Iraq, download Google Translate, expect some confusion, and enjoy the ride!
Final Thoughts: Is Iraq Worth Visiting as a Solo Traveler?
Iraq YouTube Series
Despite what the media often portrays, I found Iraq to be safe and full of friendly people. It’s a country with a ton of history and culture, the locals go out of their way to make you feel welcome.
If you’re curious to learn more, check out my YouTube video where I dive deeper into my experience traveling solo in Iraq.
If this Iraq Guide was helpful, please like, comment, and share!
Meet Me
The Bearded Backpacker
Hi there! welcome to the blog! My name is Don, and I am the beard behind this site. My hope is to inspire you to rethink the how’s and why’s of travel, and the places we travel to. Whether it’s traveling on a budget, solo trips, backpacking journeys, I’ve got you covered. Since you have landed here, I am officially your personal travel guide. Uncovering travel tips, hacks, hidden destinations, and much more. Let's start this journey.
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Frequently Asked Questions
• Is it safe to travel to iraq as a tourist?
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I’m American, and during my time in Iraq, locals knew my nationality, but I never encountered hostility. While it’s no secret that many Iraqis may have grievances with U.S. government policies, they’re remarkably able to separate politics from people. Time and again, I found that Iraqis understood that governments and their citizens are not the same.
In fact, being upfront about where I was from often sparked curiosity and conversation rather than resentment. People were eager to share their own stories, ask about life in the U.S., and even discuss their perspectives on world events without animosity. This ability to connect on a human level, despite political differences, is a testament to the warmth and open-mindedness of the Iraqi people.
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• can i visit iraq as a us citizen?
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Both Iraq and Iran have safe regions, but overall, Iran is generally considered safer for travelers. Iran has a more established tourism infrastructure, fewer security concerns, and a lower risk of terrorism or conflict compared to Iraq.
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• is iraq expensive to travel?
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- Yes, it is possible for Americans to live safely in Iraq, but it depends heavily on the region and the purpose of their stay. Cities like Erbil in Iraqi Kurdistan are among the safest places for expats, including Americans. Erbil is a hub for international businesses, NGOs, and foreign workers, with a relatively stable security situation and a welcoming local community.
In cities like Baghdad, safety can vary. While many Americans live there, particularly in the international “Green Zone,” the security risks are higher due to occasional instability or targeted attacks.
• Is Iraq safe for westerners?
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- Baghdad is safer than its reputation suggests, with improved security, vibrant markets, and friendly locals. While the city has a history of instability, incidents like bombings are now rare. A strong security presence helps maintain order, though travelers should avoid large crowds and risky areas.
• is southern iraq safe?
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- Yes, southern Iraq is considered one of the safest regions in the country. Cities like Karbala, Najaf, Basra, and Babylon are relatively stable and attract millions of visitors annually, particularly for religious pilgrimages. These areas were largely unaffected by ISIS and have seen consistent security improvements over the years.
• Is Northern Iraq Safe? (Iraqi Kurdistan)
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- Yes, Iraqi Kurdistan is one of the safest regions in Iraq and a popular destination for travelers. This semi-autonomous region has maintained stability for years, offering a peaceful and welcoming environment compared to the rest of the country. Cities like Erbil, Sulaymaniyah, and Duhok are hubs of culture, history, and natural beauty.
• Is Western Iraq Safe?
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Western Iraq, including cities like Fallujah, Hit, and Haditha, is less stable than other regions of the country. This area was heavily impacted by conflict during the ISIS era and remains more remote and underdeveloped. While some parts are now peaceful, others still face security challenges due to their proximity to borders and past insurgencies.
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SEEK AND YE SHALL FIND ME
